Revised December 25, 2001

Wintertime Vanda City
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While I certainly can (and do) push the envelope of conditions that orchids can tolerate, there are limits. Last winter was quite mild, and I did not bring very many of the "outdoor" plants inside. This year, the temperature dropped quite sharply in early December, even approaching frost. My condo isn't any bigger than it was last year (see Obsession), but I got a little more creative with my indoor growing areas. I added more tables and more lights in the Phalaenopsis area shown on the Indoor Orchids page (the spare bedroom). A big metal-halide HID light over the bathtub of the spare bathroom (shown above) makes a home for the Vandaceous orchids and some of the Cattleya hybrids. I
had
already brought in most of the Vandaceous orchids that I knew to be tender,
in mid-November. Even many of those with V. coerulea in their background
can be somewhat fragile, since the other major parent is often V. sanderiana,
which is definitely a warm grower. When deciding what to treat with a
little caution, it really pays to know the parentage of your hybrids.
I strongly recommend Wildcatt ,
a wonderful database of all registered hybrids and awards. (It's worth
every penny! You don't have to save many orchids from unnecessary death
to cover the cost, and beside, it's extremely instructive for any hobbyist.)
Then, you can learn about the cultural needs of the component species
at the Internet Orchid Photo Encyclopedia
. I also brought in some of the Cattleya hybrids that did not do so well outside last year. In particular, several C. aurantiaca/L. cinnabarina hybrids - Lc Trick or Treat and its progeny - are in sheath, and not very cold-tolerant. It's sad to lose buds to rot, so I brought them in. Of the big Blc's, most would probably rather be warm but I chose just a few to bring inside - no room for all. Most of the Paphiopedilums have come in, too. The complex hybrids usually do fine outside (and some are rather large, so that is where they stay) , but Maudiae hybrids like to be warmer, as do most of the multiflorals and parvisepalums (Paph. malipoense, armeniacum, and micranthum are fairly cold tolerant, but many of the hybrids also have delenatii, which likes to be warmer). More of the Paphs could have stayed outside if I could have kept them drier. (That's true of essentially all orchids - they can tolerate much colder tempartures when they are dry.) However, my shady growing area stays quite damp in winter, I can't protect much of it from rain, and the light, especially on the low benches, is very poor until spring. Here's a very partial list of some Vandaceous and Cattleya Alliance orchids that are particularly cold-tolerant - and stay outside in winter with no problems. But there's no magic formula. If you observe your plants, you'll minimize the "error" in the inevitable Trial and Error. |
| V. tricolor | Not used a lot in hybridizing. In hybrids, look at the other parent, too - if it is a warm-grower, the hybrid may not be as tough as this wonderful species. |
| Neofinetia falcata | Hybrids (Neostylis, Ascofinetia) |
| Laelia anceps | Hybrids (Lc, Slc) It's important to know if the "L" in the hybrid genus is L. anceps - other Laelias are not necessarily as cold-tolerant, and the percentage is important. The L. anceps hybrids often have the long inflorescence and star shape of L. anceps - a good sign that this species is dominant for other characterists such as cold-tolerance, |
| Sophronitis coccinea | Hybrids (Slc, Sl, Sc) The percentage is important - S. coccinea imparts cold-tolerance, but if the percentage is very small, it may not be enough to protect the plant from the cold if other ancestors are warm-growers. (Wildcatt gives you the species percentages for the hybrids) |