Probably the first question that a new orchid owner asks is "How often should I water? " Here, you have to look at the result and figure out the "how often" to achieve that. Orchids in general do not like wet feet. In nature, most are epiphytes, growing in trees with their roots exposed to the rain and dew, but dry out in the afternoon breezes. Even most terrestrial orchids need excellent drainage. If roots stay too wet, they will rot. They need air as much as they need water. So... first of all, do not put your plant in a dish that will hold water. Water thoroughly, and let it drain through the medium. Then don't water again until it has dried out a little. (Not bone-dry, though - most orchids want some humidity around their roots). In the house, twice a week is probably about right. Outside, it depends on the season. If there is lots of rain, don't water. If the hot desert winds are blowing, water every day. Remember, the goal is to let the roots have moisture, but not be soggy. Better too little than too much, within limits.

(Another note... for those that have a "pocket" between the leaves, such as Phalaenopsis, it is especially important that you water early enough in the day that water does not stay trapped overnight, when it gets cool. If you see standing water in the crown of the plant, blot it up with a tissue. Otherwise, you'll probably lose the plant to crown rot)

Know what general kind of orchid you have, and see where I grow mine. A Phalaenopsis (Indoor Orchids) will not be happy with a night temperature much below 60 deg. F (16 deg. C) . A Cymbidium (Outdoor Orchids: Sun) will not bloom if it does not get a 20-25 deg. F (11-13 deg. C) day-night temperature differential in the fall, and can take temperatures down to, and even a bit below, freezing for a few hours.

(Another note... water and temperature go together. When it is warm, the plant is growing, and needs more water. When it is cold, it "rests" and needs much less. An orchid can take temperatures much colder than desirable if kept dry. Some orchids even need a cool, dry rest to bloom, such as the nobile-type dendrobiums)

Know what general kind of orchid you have, and see where I grow mine. This is just a guideline, and you'll have to see what works for you. A general rule is that if the plant looks healthy, puts out new growth, but doesn't bloom again within the next year or so (if you obtained it in bloom) it is probably not getting enough light. Leaves should be light green - if dark green, most likely the plant could use more light. But be careful - increase the light gradually to avoid sunburn. A reddish tinge to the foliage indicates that you're probably near the upper end of the light range. (Think "suntan")

Think of fertilizer as "vitamins" rather than food. Plants get their food by photosynthesis, from water and carbon dioxide in the presence of sunlight. But they need some minerals, too. If you're not sure, a balanced fertilizer (20-20-20, 7-7-7, etc) applied at about half to a quarter of the recommended strength every week or two - depending on temperature - will give the plant what it needs. ("Once weekly, weakly" is a general guidline. But then at least every 4th week, skip the fertilizer so that salts don't build up). Cymbidiums seem to benefit from a higher nitrogen (30-5-5) fertilizer from late winter to mid-summer and lower nitrogen (6-30-30) from late summer to mid-winter. Nobile-type dendrobiums prefer low nitrogen in summer and no fertilizer at all in winter. When in doubt, follow the general guideline of balanced fertilizer, and let the plant take what it wants. Better too little than too much.

As mentioned above, orchids hate to be soggy. They need an open mix so that the roots get air. (That is why orchids - with very, very few exceptions - should NEVER be potted in dirt or potting soil.) Fir bark is the most common medium used. (With or without various amendments... you'll hear about the "magic formulas" that people swear by, you'll just have to see what works best for you. ) A common amendment is coarse pearlite (sponge-rock). Its main benefit is that it does not break down, and contains much airspace, so helps the drainage. Lately, I have been having very good success with coconut chips (well washed... the downside of this medium is salt-retention, and sometimes it is not as clean as desirable to begin with). Choose size based upon the plant size and root size (fine for seelings, medium for larger plants). Yet another medium that seems to work particularly well for Catts (and also Chinese cymbidiums) is Diatomite, a rocklike material that retains more than its weight in water, but stays very open. It seems to give the roots something more like "humidity" than "wet", and so seems to work especially well for orchids that are epiphitic or lithophitic in nature. I like clay pots because they dry out faster than plastic. Some people dislike them for the same reason. Go with what works for you, knowing your own conditions.

Pot ONLY when the plant is actively growing. (Spring to early summer is best for most orchids).

I have found that most of the time, a new acquisition is in need of potting right away. If purchased in the fall, wait until new growth appears if possible. But if the mix is badly broken down, it is better to set the plant back a little by potting out of season than to lose it to rot in the winter chill. In general, most plants should be repotted at least every 3 years. Those that like to be pretty moist, such as Paphiopedilums and Phragmapediums, should be potted every year because the medium breaks down faster.

Trim off dead roots. Do not be too agressive in removing old growths (back bulbs) that are stil green and firm, with or without leaves - they provide strength and food reserves to the plant. (A division should contain at least 3-5 pseudobulbs if possible.)

Cleanliness is vital to avoid spreading disease from one plant to another. Cutting tools should be sterilized between plants. I use a propane blowtorch to sterilize my shears. Or use disposable razor blades. Pots should be new, or at least washed in the diswasher. If a used pot still has material adhering to it after washing, throw it away.